Monday, August 1
Left Topeka at 1:00 with $180 in travelers’ cheques and approx. $60 in cash.  Have a full tank of gas at 23,000 miles.  It’s a clear sunny day, 85°.  Stopped first at 4:45 to make sandwiches after 205 miles.  Got gas at 6:10 at Grainfield; 10 gal and trip meter reads 274.3.  Cost $6.10 (60¢ a gal.)  Stopped for the night at Smith’s Camper Park in Stratton, Colorado around 8:00-8:30. 

Forgot a watch so we’re not always sure of the time.  Robin said if we had to forget something, he was glad it was that. We had soup and sandwiches for supper and turned in fairly early.  Si had a bit of a problem getting to “seepy,” as much as he obviously wanted to.  The overnight stay cost $4.12.

Tuesday, August 2
The alarm went off at 5:00 but we didn’t get up til 6:00.  Had a quick breakfast of mini-cereals and hit the road (a long, straight, flat one) around 7:00.  It’s a beautiful morning.  Si is engrossed in his various books.  Really glad we brought those along.

Drove straight to Denver.  Si slept most of the way, luckily.  Got gas around 10:00 or so.  10.1 gal at 57¢ -- $5.85.  Trip meter: 276.1.  The weather is still comfortable, clear and sunny.  Time 11:30.  Temperature’s rising.  The terrain is definitely more “Wyomingish.”  There are neat rock formations and our lunch place was in a natural fort where there was a big Indian battle (many years ago).

Mid-afternoon stopped for gas just outside Rawlins – 7.5 gals at 60¢ -- $4.60.  237 mi on trip meter.  Oil, 98¢.  About 13 miles north of Rawlins we just saw 5 or 6 antelope.  Reached Lander at 5:05 and found a camp area 9 miles beyond, Rocky Acres.  Cost was $4 and we got donuts for 91¢.  The campsite is in a clearing with a small irrigation brook on one side and a view of mountains on the other.

Had noodles parmesano, sliced tomatoes, green pepper and summer sausage for supper.  Again, Si had troubles getting to sleep.  Wore us out more than him.  Maybe he just has to get used to it.

Wednesday, August 3
Woke up around 6:00 and took showers (felt great) and had breakfast of eggs with sausage, donuts, cheese and coffee.  Left camp around 7:30 and headed for the Tetons.  It’s a great morning again.  Halfway to Dubois we ran into camera trouble while trying to take a picture of a majestic butte, Crowheart Butte.  Turned out to be the film’s fault.

At Dubois we got ice for $1, milk, cheese and cookies for $3.50, gas at 64¢ a gal – 7.7 gals for $5 and 201.7 mi.  Time, around 10:00.  Got two 6-pax of beer at $4.50.  Once we reached Shoshone National Forest the weather made an abrupt change to rainy and cooler.  We’re really climbing in elevation.

Entered Teton Park and got a $2 permit.  At Visitors Center picked up some trail booklets and a wilderness permit for backpacking.  Pulled into a campsite at Gros Ventre campground, a “real nice place” with a view hard to beat. 

Grabbed a sandwich and chili and then went for a hike-walk.  We had to ford the stream (Gros Ventre River) and walk along the dry river bed (lots of round, smooth rocks), then thru some brush to where we could climb up a ridge to a national elk refuge.  What a beautiful panorama!

Walked to the top of a hill up there where we could see forever.  Saw among other things a storm moving in so we headed back down and got to camp in time to batten down the hatches.  The storm never really came, tho’ – just a few raindrops. 

We had macaroni and cheese, sardines and applesauce for dinner, and then went for a ride to Jenny Lake.  The drive to and around Jenny Lake was real nice – very serene and majestic scenery.  It was getting late and cloudy so we didn’t do any walking around.  Got back to camp a little before dark.  Si was asleep and stayed that way, to our delight.  We built a fire and drank a bottle of wine before turning in.

Thursday, August 4
Slept late til 9:30.  Had flavored instant oatmeal, an apple and coffee for breakfast.  Took us a while (too long) to get everything put away and in the pack.  Didn’t get away til noon – headed for Whitegrass Ranger Station to take off for the back country.  We got to stay free in Gros Ventre as the rangers never came to collect and when we checked out the register was closed.  It was one of the nicest campgrounds we’ve ever stayed in with seclusion for our tent, a grill fireplace and table, super-clean flush restrooms, and friendly little chipmunks all around.

Just got down from our backpack trek.  We’re tired, grubby and achy but it was quite a hike – about 12 miles round trip thru some rugged hills and canyons.  Saw quite a bit of smaller wildlife – chipmunks, snakes, and marmots, and one female deer. 

Unfortunately, when Jenith spotted the deer, Robin had the camera and the deer didn’t want to stick around for a photo session.  Got a spectacular view of Phelps Lake. 

We didn’t reach our proposed destination – it just would have been too far and too steep a climb.  We camped just across a stream.  Had a repeat of weather from previous night – some clouds, wind and sprinkles. 

For dinner we had freeze-dried beef stroganoff.  Strange stuff but it tasted good to us.  Si had gone to sleep pretty early this time, but woke up intermittently all night.  It was nice to have a peaceful meal.  We walked around a bit after dinner and went to bed to rest our bones just before dark.

Friday, August 5
Woke up unaware of the time.  Broke camp, had breakfast of eggs and Bac-o bits and instant mashed potatoes (yeccchh), then packed up and headed down the mountain.  The trip was much faster and for the most part easier.  Met several people on the way.  Started sprinkling just as we got to the car.

On the way to Moose Junction we gave a guy a ride whom we’d passed on the trail.  He’s from India and had been backpacking by himself for three days.  We dropped him off when we got gas at 164.1 miles, $3.87 (67¢ a gal).  Got ice cream cones -- 62¢ -- then headed toward Yellowstone. 

Just heard on the radio that the temp has dropped from 73° to 55° in the last hour and a half (it’s a little after 1:00).

Had a pleasant, long drive thru Yellowstone in hopes of finding a campsite at the North end.  Drove past several geysers and hot springs, but stopped only once to take a picture of some moose.  Our steady driving was to no avail, every campground was full and we had to leave the park and go into Gardiner, Montana to stay at a commercial campground.  It wasn’t too bad, though we were out in the open with a zillion other campers and RVs.  At least we were by another tent.  Cost $4.

After showers and supper of asparagus and beef stew, went into Gardiner and got beer ($4.50), bread, ice, bananas and cigarettes ($2.31), diapers, postcards, flashlight and batteries ($4.11).  [Si wore out the battery in our lantern.]  Also did some laundry ($1.71), threw Frisbee and chatted with the three guys next tent from Nebraska.  Turned in around 9:30.

Saturday, August 6
Woke up to a chilly, windy morning.  Had a quick breakfast of granola and coffee, packed up the tent and headed in to beat the mad rush to Yellowstone. 

Stopped fist to mail postcards and then to inquire at Visitors Center but it wasn’t open yet.  Walked around Mammoth Hot Springs, then went on to secure a campsite at Indian Creek.  Started raining pretty good so we marked our camp and took off for a drive.  Paid our $2 for camping.

Spent some time in Old Faithful area – walked around the boardwalks between sulfur pools and bubblies and watched Old Faithful erupt.  Pretty neat.  (By this time the weather had cleared and it’s a beautiful day.)  Tried to get info about backpacking but the office was kinda busy so we drove a ways to Spring Creek picnic area and had chicken vegetable soup and chicken salad sandwiches while Si napped. 

Went back to the Info Center and got our backcountry permit, fishing permit and topo map for Ice Lake area.  Only charge was for map - $1.30.  Then got gas -- 71¢ a gal; 8.1 gals for $5.80 (232.8 miles on trip meter). 

Spent the afternoon seeing sights en route back to camp.  Stopped and walked around Geyser Basin on West Thumb of Yellowstone Lake, Mud Volcano, Inspiration Point of Grand Canyon. 

Silas has developed an aversion to the sulphur steam and screws up his nose, covers is eyes and yells when he sees (and smalls) them.  Seems to really disturb him.  The pools and springs were really amazing, though.  As we got back to cap it started clouding over again and cooling off.

We had chicken ala king with dumplings, canned peaches and chocolate pudding for dinner.  Been getting acquainted with a nice family from Utah, our neighbors.  After dinner we walked over to the amphitheater to listen to part of a discussion with the Ranger but Si got too restless so we had to leave. 

Found a path thru the woods behind our tent that led to a meadow with a little stream winding thru it.  Then it was getting dark so we came back, put Si to bed (took quite a while), sat by the fire a bit til it started raining too much, and hit the sack.

Sunday, August 7
It rained quite a bit last night – everything’s quite wet, including firewood.  Robin went down to the river to fish first thing.  Had no luck.  Then tried to build a fire – took forever, ‘cause everything was so wet but finally got it going.  Cooked some eggs with corned beef and cheese for breakfast.

Sun finally came out – Si took a nap after much persuasion and we cleaned out the car and gear.  Si didn’t sleep very long.  After we got things straightened up we had lunch – chicken soup with rice and corned beef and cheese sandwiches.  Si seems to be developing more of an appetite.

After a leisurely morning we took off for more provisions and to do a little fishing.  In Mammoth we got milk, break, cheese, cookies and butter for $5.35, ice for $1.03, beer for $2.15.  Things shore does cost money!  Also some new nipples for Si’s bottle (61¢).  On the drive back to camp we stopped off at the Norris Geyser Basin and walked around the area.

 
Si didn’t mind the fumes quite so much this time.  Ran into our neighbors on the way out.

Just upon arrival back at camp we saw an elk grazing practically in our back yard.  We got pretty close to her and she saw us but didn’t seem to mind.  Right on schedule, it started to rain just as Robin tried to get a fire going for dinner.  Si seemed ready for bed so Jenith took him into the tent – the raindrops on the roof helped put him to sleep and he was down for the evening.

It was still sprinkling but Robin had managed to get the Noodles Romanoff cooked and we sat in the car and had that with three bean salad and bread and butter.  Then, sat by the fire awhile after the rain subsided.  Went “next door” and chatted with Dave and DeAnn, showed ‘em our proposed hike route and listened to his stories from Utah.  He runs a ski lodge called The Digs in Park City.  Went to bed around 11:00.

We got back to the car by exactly 4:30.  Made a sandwich and drove to the right trailhead, parked the car and started off one more time.  Ice Lake was barely a stone’s throw over the hill from the highway and the campsite not much further.  About ¼ mile all told. 

It was a beautiful spot to be sure.  We pitched the tent, tried to get Si to sleep but that didn’t work.  Robin rigged up a “good bag hand” so the bears wouldn’t get it.  Had some deelicious beef stroganoff for dinner.

After dark when Si was asleep and we had a nice fire going under a very starry ski, we heard some kids coming around the lake that had gone by earlier.  How they followed the trail in the dark at all was amazing but when they got past us they got lost, couldn’t find the cutoff to the car.  Robin took the flashlight over and helped them find the way. 

Watched the campfire die, then went to bed.

Tuesday, August 9
After a chilly night we woke to a beautiful clear morning which warmed up before long.  Robin wet a line but with no luck again.  Had dehydrated scrambled eggs and bacon, dried fruit and coffee for breakfast.  Broke camp – by 9:30 or 10:00 we were ready to move on.  Walked over to the other side of the lake and before long found our campsite for this night.  (On the way we saw three deer but couldn’t get a picture of them.) 

Si was tired so we decided to go ahead and set up and let him sleep, then leave the stuff and walk up to Wolf Lake after lunch.  Si went to sleep pretty easy – we took off our boots and rolled up our pants and went wading and fishing a little.  There’s a real nice little beach by this campsite. 

Before long the wind picked up, the clouds came in and then came the rain.  We pulled everything into the tent and waited it out. 
Rain didn’t last long – Si woke up and we had lunch.  Freeze-dried chicken salad on Ry-Krisp and delicious beef stew.  Sun was nice and warm but then clouds came up again.  The weather here sure is changeable. 

Took a short walk to nearby Gibbon River, a pretty little winding brook through a grassy forest.  Robin caught three speckled trout!  Small ones, but three fish nonetheless.  We cooked ‘em over the fire and ate ‘em.  Tasty little morsels. Awhile later we had macaroni and cheese – then later on had shrimp Creole.  Spent a lazy, enjoyable evening.  Si never did go to bed til we did.   

Wednesday, August 10
Got up and had breakfast of instant flavored oatmeal and coffee and Si had soup – just couldn’t get enough.  Packed up camp, said goodbye to our spot and headed the rest of the way around the lake.  The rest of the trail was a real nice walk thru woods, over streams, up and down hills, past a waterfall and thru a meadow (Virginia Meadows).  Came out on the highway and had to walk a ways back up to the car.  Got things organized again before we took off.

Left Yellowstone by West exit, entered Idaho and headed south to Boise.  Stopped for gas, 69¢ a gal.  Got 8.4 gals for $5.90, 244.0 miles on meter.  Time’s 1:00. 

Came thru Targhee National Forest, had a stretch of road construction that was slow going.  Once we were out of the woods we were on a big flat plain.  Passed a road marked where you could see the three Grand Tetons.

Stopped for burgers in Ashton, around $4.60.  It was a long haul across Idaho.  Passed lots of potato fields, open range with buttes and mountains in the background. 

Stopped in Bliss to get mil and lunch meat -- $2.38.  Got gas also after 289.1 miles, 9.7 gal, 62¢ a gal, $6.01.  Arrived in Boise around dusk.

Thursday, August 11
We decided to get a burger and check out the city parks.  Got kinda lost downtown and traffic was pretty frustrating for a while.  Finally found Wendy’s Hamburgers and took a lunch to Julia Davis Park. 

Went thru the State Historical Museum – verrrrrry interesting!
From there we went to Ann Meade Park and fed the wild ducks and geese – Si really got into that.

Saturday, August 13
Woke up around 7:00, went to Winchell’s and had donuts and coffee (Si got a free one).  Went over to the Tabernacle, got a map and decided to go to a pioneer history museum instead of tour the Temple.  Spent a very pleasant and interesting hour in the museum.  It’s quite extensive. 

Then drove over to Great Salt Lake and went swimming in it – Si kept getting salt water in his eyes and mouth.  Other than that he liked it.  Ate our watermelon on the beach.

Spent the afternoon driving south across canyons and desert lands of Utah.  Fantastic scenery.  Robin said “How the earth must’ve shook here when these mountains were made.” 

Got to Green River by 5:00 and got gas -- $5.50 for 8.7 gals, 62¢ per (224.6 mi).  Drove around thru the Canyonlands for quite some time in hopes of finding a place to camp.  Took us much longer than expected. 

Finally found Werner Campground ‘way back off a dirt road in a forest amid the canyons.  The scenery was gorgeous but Si was fussy and we were tired and discouraged so it wasn’t as enjoyable as it should have been. 

Got the tent up just by dark – Si went promptly to sleep and we got a bite to eat.

Sunday, August 14
Had a meager breakfast, packed up and took the scenic route back the way we’d come thru Castle Valley to Moab – then down to Monticello where we got gas (232.8 miles), 63¢ a gal, 9.3 gals, $5.91. 

Drove on past Cortez, Colorado and stopped to picnic around 4:00.  Arrived in Mesa Verde Park around 5:30 – set up the tent and went to the store to get eggs, sausage, milk and ice -- $4.30.            

Had Tuna Helper for dinner after taking a short drive to Far View but the museum was closed so we came right back.  Drank part of a bottle of wine as Si went to sleep (by himself!). 

Our site is up above the road, sort of balcony seats, and we can observe goings-on and passers-by below.  Turned in around 10:00-10:30.

Monday, August 15
We’re in better spirits today, had eggs and sausage and orange and coffee for breakfast.  It’s overcast and cool and spits now and then.  Headed for the showers and then the southern part of the park to see cliff dwellings.  Stopped first and bought film ($2.11) and beer and a necklace for Robin’s mom ($5.22).  (Showers were $1.10.)

On the way to the ruins we heard a flash flood watch on the radio so we decided we better be leaving soon and had to tour the cliff dwellings rather rapidly. 

Did see a few pit houses and viewed Cliff Palace form across the canyon; saw the museum briefly.  Packed up camp and headed east.

Got gas at Pagosa Springs at 252.6 mi, 62¢ per, 9.1 gals, $4.75 – also sandwiches and chips -- $3.  Came up over Wolf Creek Pass – kept going til Alamosa where we had to (rather disappointedly) stay the night at a KOA ($4.68).  We regret not being able to spend more time in Mesa Verde – had planned to stay two nights had there not been such a dismal weather forecast. 
               

Tuesday, August 16
Had quick breakfast of cereal, took a short side trip to Great Sand Dunes National Monument.  Had to pay a buck to “get in” so we turned back out to the highway.  Headed south toward New Mexico, crossed over in late morning. 

Drove thru Taos, a bustling tourist trap but quaint with all its Spanish adobe.  Barely made it out of Carson National Forest to Eagle Nest in time for gas – 274.1 miles, 70¢ a gal – 10 gallons -- $6.75.  Stopped for lunch in a little diner there – good food! -- $4.89.  Got into a bit of rain going over Raton Pass – getting back into Colorado-type mountains. 

Entered La Junta around 5:00 after a long (73-mile) stretch of NOTHING but range and cattle.  Got gas ‘cause it was so cheap -- 51¢ a gal, 7 gals, $3.65, 206.9 miles.  Found a real nice camping area at John Martin Reservoir near Hasty, Colorado.  No fees, not crowded, a playground, fireplaces, nice restrooms – only problem was MOSQUITOES!    But they subsided after dark. 

Had noodles with chicken dinner mixed with Veg-All for supper. Tried to get a fire going but just got smoke; wood’s too wet.  Played Frisbee a bit and let Si play on the slide and merry-go-round.  Went to bed around 10:00 or so; the weather’s nice, not too cool.
               

Wednesday, August 17
Woke up to drizzle, fog and threat of rain so we hurried like mad to break camp – got done and out of camp just in time. 

Stopped in Lamar at a truck stop for breakfast.  Robin and Jenith had bacon and eggs and hash browns and toast and coffee – deelish – Silas had about 2/3 of a “large” shortstack – just kept stuffing it in!  That was around 8:00.

Drove pretty much solid to Dighton with just one rest stop – arrived before 1:00.  Had lunch, loafed around awhile –
           

walked over to the museum and then the park.  Found a Doobie Bros. tape that Robin brought back and repaired – works fine! 

After dinner we drove out to the farm – looked at the laser plane and the milo, cows and horses – Si sat on Gypsy (the horse) – quite a thrill. 

Came back into town and Si conked out.  We walked down to the Frigid Crème for our “traditional” hot fudge sundae ($1.40), came back and Grandma showed us some of her antique treasures til 11:00.  Slept soundly in the first bed we’ve slept in for 2½ weeks.

Thursday, August 18
Didn’t wake up till 9:00.  After breakfast Robin went out to the farm to watch Robert demonstrate his laser plane to a crowd from the Irrigation Association.  Did a load of laundry – Robin and Lisa came back in for lunch and we had roast beef and mashed potatoes etc. 

Si took a nap after lunch and Grandma and Jenith played Scrabble while Robin and Lisa played Boggle. 

Friday, August 19
Got up around 8:30, had breakfast.  Jenith’s dad had called last night and said Mom was in Denver with Laura – Loren’s worse. Cindy got a job at 1st National Bank.  Left Dighton around 9:30-10:00 – got gas first, 241.9 miles, 55¢, 9.2 gals, $5.20.  Cool and overcast skies – great for traveling across Kansas.